Scent Scholarship (May): Oud, Androstenone, Scented Cones, Ambergris
- Michelle Burk
- May 3
- 2 min read
Updated: May 7
MAY 2025
Oud’s chemical profile contains over 150 different molecules
Agarwood (oud) is formed when Aquilaria trees are infected by Phialophora parasitica fungi, triggering a resinous defense response. This resin contains more than 150 identified sesquiterpenoids and chromones, making each piece chemically unique and impossible to identically replicate synthetically. ➡️ Source: Naef, R. (2011). The volatile and semi-volatile constituents of agarwood, the infected heartwood of Aquilaria species: a review.
Androstenone smells different depending on your genes
About 50% of people perceive androstenone as unpleasant (sweaty/odorous), 40% don’t smell it at all, and 10% describe it as pleasant or sweet. This is due to differences in the OR7D4 olfactory receptor gene. ➡️ Source: Keller et al. (2007). Genetic variation in a human odorant receptor alters odor perception. Nature.
Ancient Egyptians used scented cones to perfume their hair and bodies
Art depicts Egyptians wearing perfumed wax cones on their heads that slowly melted in the heat, likely releasing fragrances like myrrh and cinnamon. Chemical residue analysis from tomb paintings confirms the potential accuracy of this practice.
➡️ Source: Stevens, A., Rogge, C. E., Bos, J. E. M. F., & Dabbs, G. R. (2019). From representation to reality: Ancient Egyptian wax head cones from Amarna. Antiquity, 93(372), 1571–1577. https://doi.org/10.15184/aqy.2019.175
➡️ Source: Egypt Exploration Society. (n.d.). Egyptian archaeology: The bulletin of the Egypt Exploration Society.
Ambergris forms around undigested squid beaks in sperm whales
Ambergris is produced in the intestines of sperm whales to encase indigestible squid beaks; it’s later excreted or regurgitated and oxidizes at sea. Its primary fragrant compound is ambrein, which converts into ambergris’s signature smell after photo-oxidation. ➡️ Source: Smithsonian Ocean Team. (2018, October 5). The mystery of ambergris. Smithsonian Ocean.
I'm a big believer in the analogue method for retaining information. Read it, hear it, write it, teach it. That's how it sticks. Even though I finished my PhD five years ago, I still use the same methods to continue learning for my professional and creative career.
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